«

»

Feb 02

Print this Post

TLR 22 3.0 Conversion Kit

223.0

A few weeks ago the Team Losi Racing Facebook page was teasing us over a few days posting pictures of different parts of a new vehical. It made for some entertaining chatter with guys guessing everything from a touring car to a quad copter….. My guess was for a new buggy(upgraded) but it turned out to be the 22T 2.0. Oh well, we don’t race those here so i was not particularly excited 🙂 So i decided to make my own 22 3.0!  The TLR team is continually testing and improving things and the following are some parts I found that many are using now… The following is my interpretation of what could be a 22 3.0. It also gives me some fun bits to install as a go through the off season car rebuild. From reading up on RCTECH and #22EMPIRE it would seem the trend for clay tracks now is mid motor. This is a new focus for the team drivers and the new light weight chassis with shorter wheelbase is part of most setups now.

PARTS REQUIRED:

-22-2.0 Buggy
-TLR331014  Chassis, -2.5mm, Lightweight: 22 2.0
-TLR231027 Bell Crank Steering System w/Hdwr: 22/2.0/SCT
-TLR330000 22 2.0 Cab Forward Body and Wing Set, w/Stickers
-TLR334018 Brass Weight, MM Hinge Pin Brace +35g:22/2.0/T/SCT
OR
-Cream Extreme
-SCH1300 Schelle Nova Slipper Assembly- Buggy

image

Winter blues waiting for the outdoor track to be open… Might as well strip the car down to its nuts and bolts. Discarding broken or worn out parts. From here i discovered a cracked shock tower and damaged front bulkhead. I also took this time to rebuild the ball diff and flush out and lube or replace worn bearings. imageA clean working surface is always recomended

image

Here are all the goodies. Special thanks to Dynamic Hobbies, Great Hobbies, Amain, and Bego racing for helping me find all the parts. Spreading the love 🙂image

I appreciate nice packaging. Sure beats a throw away bag.. Clear easy to read instructions and a container to keep spare slipper parts. My original slipper was in need of a rebuild and i had been eyeballing this and the AVID version since last summer. Both brands have interchangeable pads which is nice if your looking for spares. Different pad materials can be used to fine tune the slipper to different tracks and motors.image

The entire kit is lighter than the stock parts. Lower rotating mass can only be a good thing.image

Complete and ready for a new chassis.image

A significant weight savings. I was due for a new chassis as i had a stripped screw that resulted in dremel work that made a mess. 🙂 image

This is the V1 Cream weight we got from the UK a few years back. I would go with the TLR version now as it has the threaded hole in the center that makes life much easier. image

Ignore the crackly skin please haha. Here is something we discovered. The back edge just touches the chassis with the 2mm anti squat shim. If you use anything smaller thats gonna tweak the part upwards. So i marked and massaged it down with a sanding drum. Again go with the TLR version.image

Here is the area I am going to dremel downimage

Took a few minutes to trim down….image

image

image

The new rack is pretty simple to install but the instructions dont tell you where to install the offset camber links. HINT: they get installed inboard. The rack is very smooth and reduces alot of slop. Many hated the slider rack due to slop. I plan to add another shim though as i found the bell cranks do move up and down on the posts just a bit. The kit also includes new steering rods. So now we have spares. TLR says this about this part: “The bell crank steering system provides a reduced amount of Ackermann throughout the turning throw making the vehicle less aggressive off-center and adding steering lower speed due to an increased outside wheel angle”image

image

image

Nothing freshens up a car like a new set of rod ends. I hate building them so decided to use a drill. WOW now i almost enjoy the job. Be sure to bottom out the rod and then back it off. Makes for much easier adjustments once on the carimage

image

Rod end into the chuck and slowly reverse thread the thing and your done. If you start it by hand and go slow it will thread straight even if the rod end is not rotating perfectly tru.image

image

Some sanding mods to the battery post to allow SMC not quite Shorty Short pack 🙂 image

I used some parts from the old slider rack to hold the pack from sliding left and right in the chassis. Also buzzed the front of the battery stop to allow my Futaba RX to actually sit flat on the chassis. image

Re-wired the PTX NS transponder so i can mount it tidily on the receiver. image

image
image

imageFinally some fresh wiring of the electronics. I would love to show off the new cab forward body, but i need to get it to one of my favorite painters.. Just need to make time to drive out to one of the local talents. The Cab forward design again suits the 3.0 theme as almost all the cars out there are running them… I am excited to have a more dialed car this summer!!  Well now i only have another 4 months to test it all.. I guess next I’ll attack my 22-4 for some off season maintenance… Ill finally get around to that belt cover mod that everyone is doing now

 

By: Joel aka TKG26

 

Permanent link to this article: http://rcottawa.com/2015/02/tlr-22-3-0-conversion-kit/