VBC Ghost EVO Kit #D-05-VBC-CK09
I recently purchased a new in the box shrink wrapped VBC Ghost EVO chassis kit and thought I’d do another build review to share with RCO members. The original VBC Ghost was designed around the company’s D05 chassis and was intended to be an economical racing platform for the Vintage Trans-Am (VTA) class. Although still targeted to the VTA racer on a budget, the Ghost EVO is a completely redesigned chassis and builds on a fiber glass double deck chassis with 7075 aluminium bulkheads and composite parts. The kit includes a full set of ball bearings, shock and diff fluids, aluminium turnbuckles, front & rear sway bars, floating steering servo mount and threaded aluminium shocks. The chassis features a spool up front and a gear diff in the rear which is typical of 10th scale sedans today.
The kit comes as a chassis only and you will need to provide your own tires, rims, body, paint, motor, servo, ESC and radio set. This is typical of the high-end kits on the market today and allows the buyer to select whatever gear best suits their needs and budget.
All parts come sealed in clear plastic bags with stickers identifying the build steps matched to the manual. The manual itself is clear and easy to read and should not present any issues even for a novice builder. The build starts with attaching the bulkheads to the main chassis plate. I recommend that you lightly sand the edges of the main chassis plate and the upper deck and then seal with thin CA. This helps keep the fiberglass from splitting and gives the car a clean and smooth look. I also recommend you use blue Loctite to assemble the chassis.
Next up is the rear gear diff which is all pretty standard and easy enough, followed by the steering belcranks and steering tie-rods. The front spool, upper deck, belt tensioner and drive belt are installed on the chassis next giving you the basic core of the car. Suspension mounts and upper bulkhead caps complete the main chassis build. There is nothing difficult about the build and it is all fairly typical these days. The center pulley install completes the drive train build.
Assembly of the suspension arms follows and care should be taken to ensure you have the proper shims in place and that the shock mounts are the same left to right. The suspension arms use a tiny plastic moulded stud that you need to look for and align the same left to right; otherwise the arms could be mistakenly installed incorrectly. There is a diagram at the top of page 11 in the manual to use as reference. Be sure to take a few minutes to review before proceeding.
The manual shows how to build the CVD’s, but mine came preassembled and shrink wrapped in a separate bag. The front and rear CVD’s are the standard type, but VBC does offer an upgrade to the dual joint type if you have the budget and feel the need. The build continues with the installation of the rear carriers, CVD’s and rear turnbuckles. The front end builds in a similar manner and nothing special to report. The front and rear sway bar installation completes the chassis.
The aluminium threaded shocks build in a similar manner to all the other types I’ve built and use O-rings and spacers in the lower cap, an aluminium threaded shock collar and rubber caps in the shock tops. I built my shocks with zero rebound and I didn’t have any issues or problems. The shocks are high quality and operate very smoothly. The last step is to install the red springs on the rear shocks, orange springs up front. The front and rear shock towers install next followed by the shocks. Note that the plastic shock top and bottom connector attach to the ball connectors one way.
The floating steering servo mount must be assembled, but it uses think fiberglass and aluminium parts and builds into a very robust assembly. I really like that this unit mounts to the chassis with three bolts making a very secure and strong setup. Assembly of the plastic front bumper comes next followed by the battery retainers and the two spacers used to keep your battery from fowling the center drive belts. This completes the chassis build.
My chassis is setup as per the manual with the shocks built with the kit included shock oil and mounted to the car in the positions recommended. I feel that the stock manual setup is always a good place to start when setting up a new sedan and that’s what I did. My only modification was to add the Yokomo anti-slip rubber battery sheet (YOKB7-118RS) where the lipo pack sits to help keep it in place. The kit does not include a servo saver, so I used a Tamiya HD servo saver that I had from my last sedan.
My electronics include a Futaba low profile servo, Speed Passion Reventon R speed control, Airtronics receiver and A-main Slingshot 17.5 motor. I installed a set of used APS Sorex 28R tires and painted a Protoform DNA-1 body. I setup the toe, camber, droop and ride height to my usual settings.
I ran this chassis for the very first time at the new RCO track in the Chesterville Community Center last Sunday January 31, 2016. Traction was low in the morning but improved as the day progressed and I didn’t make any changes during the day. I did check the car after each run to look for loose bolts and to clean the track dust. The car ran perfectly and seemed to get better as the grip improved. I managed to qualify 3rd for the 17.5 blinky A-main, finishing 2nd at the tone. I had no issues all day and the car was rock solid and performed great. I went home impressed with what is supposed to be an economy chassis. If you are looking for a great ride, please have a look at the VBC Ghost EVO.
If you prefer a craphite chassis, VBC offers the Ghost EVO Carbon kit D-05-VBC-CK17 as well as the special Ghost EVO RM version kit D-05-VBC-CK19 that includes the hop-up parts that Australian National Champion Ryan Maker ran.
SteveM(from the forum)
Discuss this build here